How to Install a Clear Glass Shower Door for Fiberglass Showers

How to Install a Clear Glass Shower Door for Fiberglass Showers

[, Music ] installing the glass shower door, can add style and sophistication to your bathroom. Today, I’m going to show you the right way to replace a dated old shower door with an updated one that I picked up at Lowe’s.

The current shower drawer is doing nothing for the space style-wise. It also has some of the finish scraping off. It has frosted doors. One of the handles is broken. It’S definitely in need of an upgrade.

The first thing you’re gonna want to do is determine what size door you need so we’re gonna measure, the width and the height, so that is measuring at three separate spots, we’re starting with the width he’s measuring at the top, the middle and the bottom.

This is in case your walls, aren’t plumb so of those three measurements you’re gonna go with whichever one is the shortest. If your walls aren’t plumb, one might be off by a smidge Ben. How are we looking? We have 56 inches at the bottom and 56 in the light quarter at the top okay, so we’re gonna go with 56 for our shower door, width, okay, so for the height of this door, it’s too short, I’m 5/8 and I almost would be hitting my Head, it’s just clearly like a builder-grade.

Cheapest can be small as possible. We’Re gonna take this a lot higher. So then we have what 78 and a half inches. We do up 78 and a half inches. That’S what almost twelve inches taller than the existing one.

It’Ll mean that our shower will be attached into this tile, but that’s okay, so I’ve chosen a door that will fit this width and give me the extra height that I want. So the first step in our actual install is removing the old door alright.

So the first thing we need to do is get rid of the existing shower door and before we do any of that, we’re gonna put a drop cloth down. This will help from any debris and caulk or anything going down into your drain.

So we’re gonna take off the shower doors, they’re, just on a sliding track. There’S a little cleat a little guide at the bottom. That has to come off so Ben’s using a Phillips head bit on his drill. All right.

We can pop off the inside door. Yeah, we lift them up off the track and tilt them out from the bottom. All right, lift up tilt out up out and hand off to your partner. Alright, so you just got ta get a little rollerball off the track.

Okay, now that the doors are off, the next step is to actually cut into the all along the edges of the existing frame. When we’re doing this, we’re gonna be really careful not to cut into the fiberglass.

We don’t want to scrape that up alright. So, since our is all cut, the next thing we’re gonna do is remove this top piece. This isn’t held on by any screws, it’s actually just kind of resting in place and the cost was holding it secure.

So to lift this to get this up, we’re gonna kind of bang up and under, and that should release correct yep. Okay, now, clearly, if you have a shower curtain and Rob situation, your prep work is gonna, be a heck of a lot easier, but we get it we’re getting there on this one.

Alright. So now we need to remove the screws that are on the side. [, Music ], the bottom rail is just held on by caulk, so we’re just kind of recutting it now that we have better access to it. Gross alright, so my builder-grade shower door is gone all the tracking, but you can still see a lot of evidence from it.

So what I’m going to use is a thin putty knife and I’m gonna use it to scrape off all the residual caulk. All on the edges and down here in the bottom as well when you’re using the putty knife, you want to go nice and smooth motion and also keep your blade very flat to the wall, so not to scrape the fiberglass okay, so you’ve got lots of different Choices in glass shower doors, a frameless shower door doesn’t have a metal frame around the exterior edges.

It uses very heavy tempered glass, usually like 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick and has a clean, modern. Look. That’S mostly free of visual obstructions. Semi frameless doors do have some metal edges that are not fully framed frame, doors have metal or plastic surrounding the glass on all four sides.

These are generally less expensive options and frameless doors for door styles. You have bypass. These are two doors on separate tracks, one in front one in back, allowing the doors to slide past each other without touching pivot or hinge, they open like a standard door swinging out from the shower.

Generally, your choice in doors will be made based on your needs. Your space and your style preference for door styles, you have a few options: clear glass versus textured or frosted glass. Clear glass is fully transparent, whereas textured or frosted glass is opaque and offers a bit more privacy.

The particular door we’ve chosen is a semi frameless bypass sliding glass shower door in an oil rubbed bronze finish alright, so now we’re gonna start installing our new door, and the first thing is our wall track, which is going to go on this left side.

Now, the only thing that’s tricky here is that the bottom of my wall track is perfectly square, and the bottom of our fiber glass is a bit rounded. So Ben tell me kind of what’s going on here: we’re going to have to round the inside corner of the track to match that radius, okay, to cut off the edge of our track, we’re gonna be using a hacksaw and cutting at a 45 degree angle.

Now you just want to take a little bit off at the beginning. You can always cut more later, so we’ll cut off a bit, stand it with some sandpaper and then we’re gonna check to see how the radius is looking in the corner.

Also, remember we’re going to be covering the edge with silicone, so you a little bit forgiving. You don’t need your angle to be exactly right. Okay, so we have our wall track on our inch and a quarter line and now we’re going to use a level and make sure that this is plumb and mark our holes, all right, we’re plumb.

So the track has pre-drilled holes for us. So I’m just gonna use a pencil and Mark those holes. Okay. So now we have our marks and we’re going to use a drill with a quarter inch bit to drill in. If you were drilling into tile or ceramic, you would want to use a masonry bit, but we can just use our basic quarter inch bit nice and slow and steady.

We get through it, okay to attach the wall track into the shower. I’M using three inch stainless steel screws, they’re not going to rust. That’S why we went with stainless steel and these aren’t the ones that came in our kit.

We needed a three inch because of installing into the fiberglass now here’s another thing to note: I’m doing a little test here to make sure that I’m hitting framing in my holes, I am hitting framing.

So I don’t need to use an anchor if, by chance, when you drill your holes, if there’s nothing behind there, you’re gonna need to use some heavy weight anchors which likely come with your kit. They came with our door as well we’re dealing with a fiberglass shower surround that has tile at the top.

Many of you probably have a full tile shower just be sure to always read your manufacturer’s instructions on your particular door, installation alright. So we have our fixed panel and we are going to put it into our wall-mounted track.

My tip, for you is this: you always want to put your fixed glass opposite of your showerhead. This way, when you turn your shower on and the spray is coming down its gonna prevent leakage also, it makes it much easier when you can open the door and turn your shower head on.

So you always want to go opposite with your fixed piece, but your kit, most likely, will allow for left side or right side. Okay, now, then, is going to slide the sliding door guide into place and we’ll just put that there temporarily.

We won’t attach it yet. Okay, so Ben has our support bar now. I ordered this shower door to fit this opening. But to note is your top support bar may come a little long and that’s okay, you’ll cut it down to size, and we need to do that in this case.

Every kit will come with its own directions on how to do this, but we’re just basically gonna use a hacksaw, but make sure you notice that Ben is lining up the holes here and up we’re too long. So that’s why we took our initial measurement or we’re gonna cut it down and then we’ll be able to put it up.

Okay, so to install our support bar we’re gonna loosely, attach it first because we still need to make some measurements and we’re going to use the provided, screws and washers and nuts and bolts okay.

So what we need to do is make sure that this glass here is plumb, but one of the most important things is that this support beam is leveled. That’S gonna determine the shower-door from not sliding open or sliding closed.

Alright, we are level so Ben is marking below the support bar. So we know where to attach that. Okay, we are level, but now we also need to make sure that we are plumb. We are plumb, so now Ben can mark the side of the support bar.

Alright, now that we have our support bar marked we’re actually gonna take this back down because we need to pre-drill some holes. So that’s why we just hand tighten all right now we can pre-drill these holes and then we’ll put it back up.

Alright, a little bit of a different method for this. We are using a masonry bit to drill these holes because we’re going directly into the tile and we’re using a 5/16 bit because that’s the size anchors we have.

You always want to make sure that those to correlate so we’re gonna put in the second hole and then put the anchors in and then we’re gonna, attach the support beam. Okay, before we attach our support beam at the top.

We are gonna put on our door stops. This is gonna prevent our doors from slamming into the wall and they should face each other. So I’m gonna slide this one on. We can get those in place after all right, so we’re gonna line up our holes again so Ben’s, using an allen, wrench and tightening to the bracket and to the bar after you check to make sure that the fixed panel is plumb and level.

We are going to mark the screw locations and we are going to pre-drill two eighth inch holes and we’re going to put silicone caulk in the holes before we drive the screws to make sure it creates a waterproof seal okay.

So this is our sliding panel and in order to have it slide, we need to attach the rollers that came with our kit Ben’s, just using the allen wrench that came with this kit to tighten it up, so these rollers are going into the top holes and The bottom holes are gonna have kind of like anti jump rollers.

That will keep it on the track, but we won’t put those on until we have it up on the support beam. So now we’re gonna lift it up onto the track, but then we also need to make sure that the bottom goes into the sliding door guide that we drilled in it’s pretty smooth, oh my hand, I was afraid.

Oh, I can’t play it because of the door. Stop okay! Now what we need to install are these anti jump pegs and basically, that is gonna keep the door from popping off the track. This is definitely a two-person job call a friend for this.

Alright, we’re almost done. We are installing this water seal that came with our kit onto our sliding glass door, so this is already the size of our glass and we just need to pop it on starting at the bottom working our way up towards the top okay.

So this will provide a nice water seal against the wall of the shower with the door. Alright, now we are going to attach our door handle on the inside and outside then has one piece on the inside. I have the opposite: hmmm lining up our holes.

Teamwork makes the dream work on this. Now Ben is going to attach the interior handle. It goes in the exact same place with our kid okay and using the allen wrench provided tightening it up. Now we need to attach our fix panel onto the wall track using the provided, screws and decorative caps, be really careful when you’re doing this, because you’re working very close to the glass panel, and you don’t want to screw through and crack.

It remember to put the fitting that holds the decorative caps onto the screw before attaching you’re going to want to double check. All the functions make sure the sliding panel operates smoothly, check the closing end seal and the bottom seal in the sliding panel check the vertical seals between the panels.

You don’t want leaks, and this is the time to fix any issues. The last step is to use clear silicone caulk along the perimeter of all fixed components inside and outside of the shower, take your time and create a nice smooth bead, let the silicone dry for 24 hours before using your shower.

Now we’ve got some holes here from our old door in our fiberglass that won’t be covered by the new track because it’s semi frameless. We have a couple options to take care of these holes. One would be adding a screw that will kind of just blend in with the color make sure it’s stainless steel, so it doesn’t rust or we could fill it with bondo, which is waterproof, will dry hard and is paintable [, Music ], and that my friends is How to install a glass shower door the right way, my biggest tip would just be to really take your time and follow your manufacturers directions carefully.

I promise it’s not as complicated as you think. I hope you guys learned a lot and I would love to hear from you in a comment below want to learn more, be sure to check out the lowe’s youtube channel for great step-by-step in how to videos and lowes.

com/howto for all kinds of projects.

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