How to Make a Shower Cap

How to Make a Shower Cap

[ Music ] go on. Have a good laugh, welcome back to stitch, eb, i’m cheryl temple and now i haven’t lost it this week. It’S all about making a shower cap. Here’S mine, let’s get going before we do. Thank you so much for your lovely comments.

Last week, i can’t thank you enough, and you were so kind and lovely about my mom and my dad and everything else. It really cheered me up, so thank you so much. I think I’ve just about managed to reply to everybody now.

Thank you. It was really really kind of you, okay onto some fun stuff, so let’s gather together what we need to make our shower cap. Firstly, we just think about the fabric choose something like weights, maybe like a viscose, I found this little floral remnant that I heard and which would work really well, because it dries quickly.

It’S a little bit slippy. So if you want something more robust and easy to work with, choose a cotton poplin, something with a nice bright print, and this is really easy to sew and it’ll. Look great with a bright ribbon on this is a poly.

Cotton also works. Well, maybe you’ve got some in your stash and you don’t know what to make from it in terms of clothes. It’S perfect for a shower cap instead or if you want to make life really difficult for yourself use the satin.

This is what I used to make most of my caps in. It’S really not easy if you’re going to make her one off because it flips around with the lining, I’m going to do it in this and I’ll show you how it works and, of course, the beauty of making these.

I was mad as like, and this is a half maid Union Jack won. So if you’re making them for gifts, you could choose somebody’s team colors, you can choose somebody’s flag. I once made one from a Jamaican flag once for a chat, and that was really great and they make really beautiful gifts so to go with the fabric.

You need some setting if you want to add a bow on the top. I use these wide double faced. Settings and you get a range of colors. If I was gonna make this one, I need to find a white one somewhere. I think I’ve used all my white ribbon on your parcels, so we’ll find some somewhere but yeah.

This would look beautiful with a lovely big white satin bow. So we’ll get that for you, but yeah. You can just go as mad as you like, with the color combos and it’s quite fun putting that together to line the shower cap, because you need it to be shower proof.

You need a shower curtain. This is the easiest thing to find and by most supermarkets sell them this one’s from Georgia Tassadar, which is our Walmart, and I think I paid two pounds for this and can get a few out of one of these they’re 180 by 180.

So you could get probably 5 out of this if you wanted to make a few, so it’s really inexpensive to make the elastic casing and the elastic you use a length of. I think this is six millimeter elastic, so this thin one iced buy in bulk.

This is a 250 meter reel. You only need about a meter of this from memory, we’ll work it out as we go through and you can see when I get to that. So yeah, that’s quite easy to do and then, of course, to make the casing for that.

You need some bias binding and you could make this yourself a little channel. You could just use some twill tape if you’ve got some of that in, but make sure it’s wide enough to make it a little bit easier for yourself.

This is 19 millimeters wide as it’s folded, so this is easy to work with. I used to choose the satin one, because I found it more comfortable on the hairline. It’S one of the reasons I used to make shower caps because I hated this scratchy ones.

You bought in the chemist, so I wanted something that felt more luxury and uncomfortable on the head. So I chose that in it washes really well this too, and it comes in other colors, a white one will work really well with the white polka dots, for example, and, of course, you’ll need your pens and your regular stuff to say with I’m sure you know All that so, first up we’re going to make a template for the actual shower cap itself.

Now, the way I did it was to make a semicircle shape. First, it’s easier and drawing a perfect circle. It’S not as easy as you think I bought one of these. Our feed Bay, which is a giant compass it reminds me of school, did your teachers have thieves and they used to use a chalked and do circles and our maths and chemistry lessons anyway, if this looks homemade, so I’ve, no idea where you picked that you could Probably get these now and I don’t think Amazon was around when I bought this, so I’ve just taped this very technical tape to pencil to it.

There’S a sharp point there and then you can draw a semicircle or a full circle. If you wanted to the diameter that you want my shower caps to be 60 centimeters across, and that was a little bit larger than the one she could get in the shops, mainly because I had more hair – and I wanted something a little bit more bouffant and A bit kitsch, so you can’t make them smaller.

You’Ve got a small head, but what I’d do is just make them all sixty centimetres and then, if you want it, tighter, just tie your elastic a little bit tighter and I’ll. Show you how to get the perfect fit for those when we come on to that part, okay, let’s get going and make the template first.

So this is my template that I’ve cut out. This is what I used to work with loss, so I made it from fabric. You can make yours in paper. I just found it easy to work with in fabric and if the actual diameter of the circle is 60 centimeters, that’s across the whole circle, then that part there.

The radius needs to be 30 centimeters, so draw a semicircle on your templates. However, you want to because I know I appreciate these are a bit odd to find and then create that there okeydoke, so the pins are in and I’m going to cut it out now you might want more pins and if you’re, not that confident, but because this Is on a mat, that’s not slippy, I’m fairly, confident that this is going to be okay, the train next we’re going to unravel the shower curtain.

What we want to do is pop on your actual cutout fabric. Straight on to this, I wouldn’t cut out a circle from the actual template, because I don’t think they match up as well as when you need to cut them out together.

So we’ll pop this on its up nicely with a corner, so we’re not wasting the rest. Now what we need to do is pin that all the way around and then cut it out there we go. It’S been pinned to within an inch of its life now, so we’re ready to start sewing it together.

Let’S go to the sewing machine so so here we are at the singer: it’s a bit noisy self bowing. So what we’re gonna do is sew all around the edge of the circle, taking the pins out as we go and out so every your pins and I tend to sell about a centimeter from the edge you can make it more if you want to, because We are going to trim it later, so don’t leave too small amount, [, Music, ], we’re all finished nice and neat if it does fold over and make her little fold because the fabric sponge job don’t worry about it.

It’S fine because we’re going to put elastic in it’s all going to ruffle up anyways, so don’t worry too much and there we go. We need to trim off the excess and then I’ll take to the next stage right now for the fun part.

Okay. So what we’re going to do next is to bind the edge of the actual shower cap and that’s what gives it a nice finish, because we’ve sewn both layers of the fabric together with the right side up, then we need to finish the edge in a nice Way so I’ve trimmed the seam allowance and left a few millimeters and after the stitch line just for safety really, but we want we’re going to cover that up with that bias binding.

Now there are a few ways to sew this and you’ll find lots of tutorials as to how to sew it. When you unfold it stitch one side and then fold it around and then stitch the other, but I found it a bit hit-and-miss, especially when you’re sewing a large area like this, it’s difficult to get it perfect every time, maybe okay for a little sleeve, perhaps, but I think, if you’re doing something, that’s really visible.

It’S nice to get a professional finish. So I discovered this, which is a bias, binding, folder and what it does is it lets you sell your bias binding in one go, so you will pop in your binding like so it sorry it’s difficult to do what I’m showing you that feeds through there.

You take a little pin and you poke it through okay and then it comes out the other side and you feed your fabric through that little channel and you can see it stitches right in there in one go perfectly aligned and that’s the difficulty was so envious.

So I love this. I know you’ve got to be careful to get the right size for your bias, binding now annoyingly my bias binding is 19 millimeters wide. That’S the folded size that part. It’S not the unfolded, one, that’s always confusing when buying bias.

So double-check that – and this is three quarters of an inch size – bias folder, which just happens to also be 19 millimeters, so you’ve got to have a bit of jiggery-pokery to work that out so buy the right one.

Now, for my machine, this screw screws onto the actual plates and there’s two little holes on my sewing machine and and the screws come with it here so every time I want to use that I just screw it in place and you’ve got to get it lined Up properly so it should sit right next to the the foot.

Don’T let it interfere with the foot, so the foot still needs to come up and down just sits alongside it. It box up close to it. So here we are I’ve threaded the bias tape through the little folder the up and just with a pin.

You just need to ease that bias through so that it comes to just under the foot. Now we need to slot in the fabric there we go make sure it’s all lined up and then lower. The presser foot make sure is fitting nice and snug there.

Now we’re going to make a couple of stitches to get started and just a lot of that in place now the ends raw still on here, but that will be covered up when we finish it off. So all is well and just let it feed through itself.

Just guide it through, so we really we’re focusing on this part. Really. Everything else should take care of itself if you’ve got it all lined up and the stitch should be neat, I’m using a stitch length of about two and a half just notice.

My machines not quite threaded properly they’re, sneak that in there there we go okay there we go just take your time and sew it around now. This is a really good, finishing technique for necklines or cops anything really that what you want.

A nice neat finish. You can also do your bound seams this way, so you can finish the insides of your seams like this. That’S called the Hong Kong finish and it gives it a beautifully neat edge. What you just want to do is keep this part snug as you can don’t let it fold over keep feeding it through as it goes when you get near to the end, you’ll notice, there’s a little gap leave a gap and I always trim off the threads.

Just because I’m a neat freak, let’s trim them off okay. Now what we want to do here is overlap this raw edge and to tuck it inside as well. So just need to be a bit careful, though, that all lines up and we need to go over it Mama’s sure that it’s covered it up, I’m just a couple of back stitches and then we’re good to lift off now.

What we’re going to do here is trim this part, Oh, lift up the foot and then you’ll notice. That’S all finished and there’s a little tail here, but you can see how neat it is. It’S a much nicer finish, then trying to make sure you hit the back of it by hand.

Okay, so I’ve trimmed off the little threads and I’m going to shorten this now about an inch and a half or so you can just guess and then I’m gonna fold it over tuck it under like that and then I’m going to place a few stitches There just to finish that off and that’s not finished so we’ll just trim off the threads, be careful when you’re working with satin as well, doesn’t like sharp scissors and there we go so we’re nearly there.

We’Ve got our round circle, starting to look a bit more. Like now, it’s all neatly finished off, so all we’ve got to do next is to put the channel in for the elastics that’s going to go around our heads now to do that, we need to sew bias binding about two inches from the edge now.

This is to taste really, so you need to think about how much you’d, like the edge flicking out to the side, so I usually do about two inches when I first started sewing this, I measured it and I dotted a little line all the way there on The outside and then I sewed my bias.

I don’t pin this stage because you don’t really want to be pinning the other side of satin. So I’ll show you how I do it. I do it by feel. I know I’ve done thousands, but it’s quite easy. You can make the mark to give yourself a guide, but just take it steady and I’ll.

Show you what I do next, so we’re going to fold over the bias pop it onto our shower cap, where the back seam was. If you remember why we finished it off and just lay that down here and it’s about it’s probably just over an inch and a half, maybe two inches from the edge and I’m going to sew that all the way around.

Until we come back to this point and then I’ll show you how what we do when they meet, you have to bend it round into a curve as you go, I know it’s a little quick this stage, but it’s okay, the curves, not so bad.

You just have to keep everything smooth now when you get near to the end, stop sewing a couple of inches from where the other one is anyone to fold it over so that it butts up nicely. I fold it over twice: that’s what we have so far.

So all we need to do next is to finish off the inner circle side, and that will give us a nice channel. Next. We need to thread the elastic through the channel now to get the right length of elastic. You need to measure your head with it.

Just work out, you want it to stay on your head work out where feels comfortable, which is about there for me pop a little pen mark, so don’t trim that off, because it really helps at this stage if you’re asked it’s much longer than you need now To thread mine, I use one of these large tapestry style needles to thread mine, ideally a Bodkins best and with a little bubble on the end.

So you know it’s not going to go through, but I’m careful – and this is okay. So what I do is to stop it unthreading as you’re going through. I just put half a knot in there and that enough to hold it.

You don’t gomathy, can knot it twice if you, if you’re worried, and we need to pop it through the first part of the channel and then gradually thread it through and all we need to do is shuffle it along and pull it out.

Shuffle it and then pull it, keep shuffling along, don’t force it. If you feel a bit if resistance, because you don’t want it to come through to the sat inside or the cotton side – it’s quite quick go in and then you’ll see it come out for little channel at the other side.

And when it’s come out of the channel at the other side, turn the light down a bit cause you’re getting a bit. Blinded, aren’t you then just pull it through and find your little mark that you made with your pen there we go and cut it off somewhere.

Just after it, you want to leave yourself a bit of wiggle room, so you can play with the sizing. I’M going to tie this in a knot fairly loosely, so I can leave it like that and just then play around a bit.

So you don’t want to loosen up inside the channel to fill it out and then we can try it on and see if it fits now. That’S a bit loose on me. So I’m going to tighten it more, and this is where you can just keep playing around with it and see how it fits tighter, that’s perfect for me.

So what I’m gonna do is finish that knot off properly by tying it again. It’S my hair gun everywhere now. I know I’m waiting close to the camera. If I do apologize, okay, we’re going to trim off the ends and then you can lose the nuts in the channel by wiggling it through and it will disappear.

If you just even out the folds and the gathers and there we go. All that’s left to do. Is the finishing touch which is a bone? I’Ve managed to find a tiny bit of white satin ribbon left. This is narrows and I’d like for the finish on this, but it’ll do because it’s white I’ll show you how I tie them to make them sit.

Really neatly – and you can use this on your sewing as well or for shoes or little finishers – be nice to do a bow like this is great. So what I do is and make a loop and then push that through and if it’s one-sided like this, where there’s a shiny side, you need to gradually just pull that through and then you can make it through like that.

I’Ll show you again, so you make a loop longer than you need the bow to be and wrap that round being conscious of the right side. That makes it doubly difficult you better with double-sided satin bows.

If you can, that’s it pull it tight there we go and then we’re going to finish off the edges. I’Ve not got the right scissors for this, but you get the idea now little tip for you to stop these edges fraying.

You can burn them with a lighter, be careful there, kids just a few stitches through there. You go and that’s anchored nicely there and there. It is one finished shower cap, it’s a beautiful gift and if you wanted to be really keen, you could make a matching wash bag to go with it, which is quite nice.

There’S loads of tutorials and free patterns for those on Pinterest so have a peep. Well, thank you so much for watching my dad little tutorial hope you enjoyed it and I’ll see you again next time. Thank you! Bye for now, [, Music, ]

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