Why Does My Shower Smell Like Rotten Eggs
Hello and welcome to another episode of Ken’s training. Today’S training is going to be on a restroom floor drain, trap primer. The call came through today’s a Monday call came through on a Friday after we had gone home, hey the bathroom area, smells like a sewer came in on on Monday, and the bathroom didn’t smell.
But the first thing I wanted to check was the floor drain. I checked it with my flashlight I’ll show you that in a second and sure enough, the trap at the bottom of the floor drain is dry, indicating that the trap primer, which is this small plumbing device – that’s about this big and what it does is.
Is it interconnects into the cold water line as someone flushes a toilet, or something like this? It’S it does a little spurt of water like this every time someone does something and it just constantly bleeds the small amount of water into the into the floor drain, p-trap in an effort to prevent soil gases from backing up mind you.
This only happens when the sore gas system has a positive pressure right now, the trap I haven’t been primed it manually – I’ve just left it alone and there’s no sore gases in here, because the source system right now is either at a atmospheric pressure or below atmospheric Pressure, so it’s not in positive pressure, so is so that’s it and then I’ll show you the steps that we need to to fix and troubleshoot this all right.
Here’S the floor drain in the restroom now you’re looking through a grate, so it can be difficult to see. So what I do is I take my flashlight. I put it through that. Just lay it there on top and then, while I’m looking down it, what I’ll do is a la see if I can’t get you the best angle, what you want to do is you want to see the exact bottom of the of the trapping on? Let me just I’m just trying to show you this as best I can.
It might take a second for me to get the best angle. I don’t see here right there, possibly now I keep going out of focus anyways that that you know when you’re looking at it in person up through the camera it’s dry.
So next thing you want to do. Is you want to locate where the trap primer is located? So what you do is you look along your wall here and you’re looking for access hands, so I go over here to this to the next stall middle stall.
There’S two panels here to access panels. So I already opened them up this one over here is housing for a shutoff valve. So if there’s a problem, use that blue handle valve and you shut off the water to these toilets over here is where the access panel should have been located for the trap.
Primer, but when you look in here, you’ll see that the only thing I’m looking at there is a two inch sewer pipe or vent pipe. There’S no trap primer right here, so what it did was is I got my inspection mirror and I started looking around and I and put my flashlight in here: it’s going to be a little hard to do with all three hands here.
So what I did was, as I looked around here, to try to find where the trap primer is so. This is the way that I found it. So when I was using that method, I did find it and I’ll show you where it’s located.
It is located right in this stall right behind that blue tape. Now, using the inspection mirror, I could see that there was a piece of wood on this side. Where so goes ceramic tile. There’S a two inch or an inch inch and a half thick block of wood like a two by six and then they put on the other side of that primer.
So what I have to do is I need to go into the wall. That’S on the other side of the wall here and I’ll. Show you that right now to show you what that looks like it’s in an electrical room. Alright! So here I am in the electrical room and just utilizing a tape measure.
We have determined that right where that blue tape is that right there right on the other side of that drywall is where the trap primer is approximately located. You see, this is a not a good situation.
I have all these conduits that I got to deal with. I’M not going to be able to turn my wrenches very much, but I am committed because this is where it’s located. That is the part that has failed. This is where I need to gain access to when next thing is to break open.
This wall see what we can find okay, so I open up the first access hole and now you can actually see the trap primer located right there. You see a bunch of calcium deposits located here at the top, as if it’s been I don’t know in a poor condition for a long time.
There is a shutoff valve with the blue handle right here, and there is a union right there, where I could potentially break this thing apart, going to be tough to get wrenches on this whole thing, no matter what I do even turning the wrench is because of This limited access.
You can also see that 2×6 block of wood I had talked about earlier there. It is right there. This is the prevailing reason. Well, there’s a couple of reasons. Also, I didn’t have to disturb the ceramic tile, so coming on, this side makes much more logical sense and going on the other side.
All I’ve got is drywall no ceramic, but because of that block of wood, it would have been silly to go. On the other side anyways, but on this side of the wall I do have a whole bunch of conduits. So I don’t even know if it’s going to be possible, but my first step is going to be to shut that water off with the blue handle and then break this thing apart and then see.
If I can’t remove this assembly and clean it out. If I can fix it great, if not I’ll, have to replace it with some type of a replacement, that’s what I’m going to be working on right now and I’ll see if I can’t break that apart with a couple of wrenches, if not off, to use a Small tubing cutter, the micro tubing cutter.
They actually cut that half-inch copper right there line in order to get this thing apart, so I can start spinning it out. So that’s what I’m working on now. Okay, I got the trap primer out of the wall here.
It is right here it says that it’s a model PPP track, primer model, P and anyways there. It is right there you got severe calcium-magnesium on the top, looking at it straight up and down. Okay, like that see a bunch of frustation in there, it’s possible that if this is just going to have to be replaced up, cleaning up, take it apart clean it up, see what I can do.
Otherwise I’ll just have to get another another one of those trapped. Primers – and it might have one in inventory, downstairs one other problem that I experienced was is that, even though I had this blue valve half-inch valve shut off the it was leaking pretty bad and it started leaking down and flooding out this area pretty bad.
So I had to go inside the woman’s restroom and shut off the valve upstream of this one, and, and so even though the valve upstream of this one is shut off. You can still see that this one here is dripping so another problem that we’re experiencing we’re.
Trying to capture that with the bucket down there right now, but you know just part of the plumbing problems that you come across so while the restroom is out of service, because I’ve got the toilets off we’ll work on this right now, it’s okay, we are underneath The sink, here’s the trap primer and I we took it apart – cleaned out, there’s a strainer right in this section I cleaned out that strainer.
I tried to adjust the needle seat, the valve here, which, which is like operating an internal plunger, and then I just connected a 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch metal, flexible line. So I could do a test out here without going in the wall.
So when you open the valve, this is how much water comes out. I tried to adjust it here. It’S just. It is not allowing me to adjust. I’Ve played around with it. I’Ve been playing with this few minutes here, trying to get it to get a better adjustment here, but no matter what I do just keep doing that.
So it looks like this part is just not going to work for us at all. We’Re going to get a replacement try, so here we are back here. We have our brand new trap primer, which is right here. It’S a my fam and it was about $ 45, a turbine pipe and supply.
The overall size is almost identical to the one I removed it’s slightly shorter, but I’m not going to be installing it with the Union the way that they had it. What I’ve got, what I’ve already done is I’ve already cut out where the union was located and what I’m going to do is I’m going to put this flared poly tubing on here are like that with the hose clamp one here at the top and one one Here at the bottom, so I’ve cut out a small section of pipe.
This here was the inside the wall was the Union right there. So basically, I already cut this section out, so I’m going to put in a new cut polyvinyl from here to here and just connect it with hose clamps.
I already got that on there with brand new teflon tape. That’S ready! That’S that’s! Fresh teflon tape here ready to screw in when I screw it in I’ll, try to have it so that the nameplate is facing me.
So it’s easy to read. If I can – and I like to clear the clear vinyl, because this way when it’s in operation, I can hopefully see the water discharging out of it, so the next shot you’ll see is actually installed.
Alright, here’s the final product inside the wall. I’Ve got the valve opened. I had a couple of leaks that were leaking right around right around that joint right there, but pretty much got those leaks solved up now.
We’Ve got it all the water turned on, and now I’m going to show you the operation of how this works. I’Ve got my assistant inside flushing, the toilet, now you’ll notice that every time he flushes the toilet it’s going to disperse through that clear tubing right there, a small amount of liquid right there.
Did you see that that’s going to the trap in the floor and that so that means that every time someone uses the toilet just a small amount of that liquid right there, water is just going to keep that trap primed and that’s just how it operates.
So there you go, I just wanted to give you a demonstration. Show you the final product there. It is right there. Okay, all that’s left here is to patch up the wall, but whenever I make a plumbing repair, what I what I like to do is I like to leave the the the wall open for at least 24 hours and then we’ll come back here tomorrow.
We’Ll check down inside here to make sure that everything is dry and that and also we’ll check the piping is to make sure that there’s no leaks that we have to to address, because I certainly don’t want to button up the wall right away with.
Potentially, a water leak and back of there – and this is just an electrical room closet so we’ll just simply wait. Okay, so I just want to explain that and – and that’s it thank you, you.
Hi, I’m Dave Jenkins with best plumbing in Seattle. There are three main reasons why you’d have a sewer odor in your shower. First and foremost, I would check the shower drain to make sure there is in fact no sewer backed up in your shower step.
1. Let’S check our shower drain to make sure you’re not having a sewer backup and then typically turn the water on to see. If maybe the p-trap is dried up step 2, let’s go ahead and check the drains to make sure you’re not actually experiencing a back up.
So let’s say this is your shower in the bottom of your shower: there’s a drain that has a little small area like this. This is the plumbing assembly, Cody trip. It holds water same thing as where the washer underneath your sink, that’s a good example or the toilet.
It holds water all the time and that allows the water to pass through and the sewer gas will not come back up. So, like I said in the instance where there’s a basement and you don’t use your floor drain when it dries out the air or the methane gas from the sewer, even though it’s not plugged will come up into your whatever fixture is dried out.
So a floor drain or a shower in the basement, and that creates the inner notre so by adding water it closes the air gap. Background number three: I would check to see if there’s any loose pipes or clean-out caps that have come undone.
Those can create an area where the sewer gas can come right in to your home and create a smell. That’S tricky to locate, so I would inspect all of these pipes make sure nothing’s loose or uncaf creating any odor smells from the sewer when I’ve had customers at a sad-ass smell for my washer I’ll go back there, someone will have done a remodel job and left An open, pipe and they’re smelling it sewer odor from that, so it’s not dangerous, but yeah.
It creates an odor smell. If you do a couple of simple troubleshooting tips and the smell is still there, then it probably time to call a plumber and have them scope. Your line and make sure it’s not in fact a sewer factor for more how-to videos in the latest innovations for your bathroom kitchen.
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